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Revision as of 13:06, 7 May 2022 edit31.51.27.171 (talk) 2 silk stripe galon is required for white tie. Court shoes are the only acceptable shoe for white tie.Tags: Visual edit Mobile edit Mobile web edit← Previous edit Latest revision as of 04:46, 29 December 2024 edit undoAnne drew (talk | contribs)Extended confirmed users, Pending changes reviewers, Rollbackers7,097 edits Please provide a reliable source for this. Also this might belong in the article body.Tag: Undo 
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{{Short description|Style of formal dressing}} {{Short description|Style of formal dressing}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2023}}
] wearing white tie in '']'' (1919)]]
] in ] and ] in white tie in '']'' (1933)]] ] in ] and ] in white tie in '']'' (1933)]]
{{Western dress codes|formal}} {{Western dress codes|formal}}
'''White tie''', also called '''full evening dress''' or a '''dress suit''', is the most ] in traditional evening ].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.debretts.com/expertise/etiquette/dress-codes/white-tie-dress-code/|title=White Tie Dress Code|website=]|access-date=5 April 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200323101518/https://www.debretts.com/expertise/etiquette/dress-codes/white-tie-dress-code/|archive-date=23 March 2020|url-status=live}}</ref> For men, it consists of a black ] (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a white ] with a starched or pique bib, white ] ] and the ] white ] worn around a standing ]. Mid or high-waisted black ] with '']'', a braid of trim consisting of two silk stripes to conceal the outer seams of the trousers, along with ] complete the outfit. ], decorations and ]s may be worn. Acceptable accessories include a black ], white ], a white ], a ], a white pocket square, and a ]. Women wear full-length ] or ]s with ] and, optionally, ]s, ], and a small ].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://infinitybridesmaids.com.au/blog/dress-code-for-wedding-guests/|title=Dress Code For Wedding Guests|website=infinitybridesmaids.com.au|date=Feb 16, 2021}}</ref> '''White tie''', also called '''full evening dress''' or a '''dress suit''', is the most ] evening ].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.debretts.com/expertise/etiquette/dress-codes/white-tie-dress-code/|title=White Tie Dress Code|website=]|access-date=5 April 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200323101518/https://www.debretts.com/expertise/etiquette/dress-codes/white-tie-dress-code/|archive-date=23 March 2020|url-status=live}}</ref> For men, it consists of a black ] (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a white ] with a starched or piqué bib, white ] ] and the white ] worn around a standing ]. Mid or high-waisted black ] with '']'', a braid of trim consisting of two silk stripes to conceal the outer seams of the trousers, along with ]s (]) (pumps in ]) complete the outfit. ], decorations and ]s may be worn. Acceptable accessories include a black ], white ], a white ], a ], a white pocket square, and a ]. Women wear full-length ] or ]s with ] and, optionally, ]s, ], and a small ].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://infinitybridesmaids.com.au/blog/dress-code-for-wedding-guests/|title=Dress Code For Wedding Guests |website=infinitybridesmaids.com.au |date=16 February 2021}}</ref>


The dress code's origins can be traced back to the end of the 18th century. New fully black-coloured ] styles emerged around the ], notably adopted by the ] ] of the ] of the ]. Increasingly following the ], high society men abandoned the richly decorated justaucorps coats for more austere cutaway ]s in dark colours, with cuts perhaps further inspired by the ]s and ]s of country gentlemen. Gradually replacing also ], ] dress shirts and ] with plain white ]s, shorter waistcoats, white ]s and ], this became known as ]. By the early 19th-century ], dark dress tailcoats with light trousers became standard daywear, while black and white became the standard colours for evening wear. Although the directoire style was replaced for daytime by black ]s and bowties by mid-19th century, cutaway black dress tailcoats with white bowtie has remained established for formal evening wear ever since. The dress code's origins can be traced back to the end of the 18th century. New fully black-coloured ] styles emerged around the ], notably adopted by the ] ] of the ] of the ]. Increasingly following the ], high society men abandoned the richly decorated justaucorps coats for more austere cutaway ]s in dark colours, with cuts perhaps further inspired by the ]s and ]s of country gentlemen. Gradually replacing also ], ] dress shirts and ] with plain white ]s, shorter waistcoats, white ]s and ], this became known as ]. By the early 19th-century ], dark dress tailcoats with light trousers became standard daywear, while black and white became the standard colours for evening wear. Although the directoire style was replaced for daytime by black ]s and bowties by mid-19th century, cutaway black dress tailcoats with white bowtie has remained established for formal evening wear ever since.


Despite the emergence of the shorter ] (or tuxedo) in the 1880s as a less formal but more comfortable alternative, full evening dress tailcoats remained the staple. Towards the end of the ], white bow ties and waistcoats became the standard for full evening dress, known as white tie, contrasting with black bow ties and waistcoats for the dinner jacket, an ensemble which became known as semi-formal ]. Despite the emergence of the more comfortable semi-formal ] dress code in the 1880s, full evening dress tailcoats remained the staple. Towards the end of the ], white bow ties and waistcoats became the standard for full evening dress, contrasting with black bow ties and waistcoats or ]s for black tie.


Following the social changes after the ] and especially with the ], white tie was increasingly replaced by black tie as default evening wear for more formal events. Since the late 20th century, white tie tends to be reserved for the most formal evening occasions, such as ]s and ], in addition to formal ] and ] such as the ] in ], the ] banquet in ], ], and the ] in ]. White tie still also occurs at traditional ]s and church celebrations, at certain ] and ], as well as occasionally around some traditional ]. Following the social changes after the ] and especially with the ], white tie was increasingly replaced by black tie as default evening wear for more formal events. Since the late 20th century, white tie tends to be reserved for the most formal evening occasions, such as at banquets following ]s, ]s and ], in addition to formal ] and ] such as the ] in ], the ] banquet in ], ], ]s at ] and ]s at ], and the ] in ]. White tie still also occurs at traditional ]s and church celebrations, at certain ] and ], as well as occasionally around some traditional ].


==History== ==History==
{{see also|Tailcoat#History}} {{see also|Tailcoat#History}}
] ]
] (1843)]]
] meets King ] (1859).]]
]'' (1885)]]

=== 19th century: origins and development === === 19th century: origins and development ===
]'' from 1899, showing ] wearing white tie]]

Throughout the ], western European male courtiers and aristocrats donned elaborate clothing at ceremonies and dinners: coats (often richly decorated), frilly and lacy shirts and breeches formed the backbone of their most formal attire. As the 18th century drew to a close, high society began adopting more austere clothing which drew inspiration from the dark hues and simpler designs adopted by country gentlemen.<ref name=":26">{{Cite news|url = http://www.slate.com/articles/arts/culturebox/2014/02/tuxedos_at_the_oscars_a_guide_to_appreciating_the_best_and_worst_menswear.html|title = A Field Guide to Tuxedos|last = Marshall|first = Peter|work = Slate|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151001172525/http://www.slate.com/articles/arts/culturebox/2014/02/tuxedos_at_the_oscars_a_guide_to_appreciating_the_best_and_worst_menswear.html|archive-date = 1 October 2015|url-status = live}}</ref> By the end of the 18th century, two forms of tail coat were in common use by upper-class men in Britain and continental Europe: the more formal dress coat (cut away horizontally at the front) and the less formal ], which curved back from the front to the tails. From around 1815, a knee-length garment called the ] became increasingly popular and was eventually established, along with the morning coat, as smart daywear in Victorian England. The dress coat, meanwhile, became reserved for wear in the evening.<ref>Jenkins 2003, p. 886</ref> The ] ] adopted a minimalistic approach to evening wear—a white waistcoat, dark blue tailcoat, black pantaloons and striped stockings.<ref>Carter 2011</ref> Although Brummell felt black an ugly colour for evening dress coats, it was adopted by other dandies, like ], and black and white had become the standard colours by the 1840s.<ref>Williams 1982, p. 122</ref><ref>Jenkins 2003, p. 887</ref> Throughout the ], western European male courtiers and aristocrats donned elaborate clothing at ceremonies and dinners: coats (often richly decorated), frilly and lacy shirts and breeches formed the backbone of their most formal attire. As the 18th century drew to a close, high society began adopting more austere clothing which drew inspiration from the dark hues and simpler designs adopted by country gentlemen.<ref name=":26">{{Cite news|url = http://www.slate.com/articles/arts/culturebox/2014/02/tuxedos_at_the_oscars_a_guide_to_appreciating_the_best_and_worst_menswear.html|title = A Field Guide to Tuxedos|last = Marshall|first = Peter|work = Slate|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151001172525/http://www.slate.com/articles/arts/culturebox/2014/02/tuxedos_at_the_oscars_a_guide_to_appreciating_the_best_and_worst_menswear.html|archive-date = 1 October 2015|url-status = live}}</ref> By the end of the 18th century, two forms of tail coat were in common use by upper-class men in Britain and continental Europe: the more formal dress coat (cut away horizontally at the front) and the less formal ], which curved back from the front to the tails. From around 1815, a knee-length garment called the ] became increasingly popular and was eventually established, along with the morning coat, as smart daywear in Victorian England. The dress coat, meanwhile, became reserved for wear in the evening.<ref>Jenkins 2003, p. 886</ref> The ] ] adopted a minimalistic approach to evening wear—a white waistcoat, dark blue tailcoat, black pantaloons and striped stockings.<ref>Carter 2011</ref> Although Brummell felt black an ugly colour for evening dress coats, it was adopted by other dandies, like ], and black and white had become the standard colours by the 1840s.<ref>Williams 1982, p. 122</ref><ref>Jenkins 2003, p. 887</ref>


Over the course of the 19th century, the monotone colour scheme became a codified standard for evening events after 6 p.m. in upper class circles.<ref name=":26" /> The styles evolved and evening dress consisted of a black dress coat and trousers, white or black waistcoat, and a bow tie by the 1870s. The ] (black tie/tuxedo) emerged as a less formal and more comfortable alternative to full evening dress in the 1880s. Over the course of the 19th century, the monotone colour scheme became a codified standard for evening events after 6 p.m. in upper class circles.<ref name=":26" /> The styles evolved and evening dress consisted of a black dress coat and trousers, white or black waistcoat, and a bow tie by the 1870s. The ] (black tie/tuxedo) emerged as a less formal and more comfortable alternative to full evening dress in the 1880s.


] wearing white tie on stage in 1937]]
By the early 20th century, full evening dress meant wearing a white waistcoat and tie with a black tailcoat and trousers; white tie had become distinct from black tie.<ref>Jenkins 2003, pp. 888, 890</ref> Despite its growing popularity, the dinner jacket remained the reserve of family dinners and gentlemen's clubs during the late Victorian period.<ref name=":26" /> By the early 20th century, full evening dress meant wearing a white waistcoat and tie with a black tailcoat and trousers; white tie had become distinct from black tie.<ref>Jenkins 2003, pp. 888, 890</ref> Despite its growing popularity, the dinner jacket remained the reserve of family dinners and gentlemen's clubs during the late Victorian period.<ref name=":26" />


===20th century=== ===20th century===
⚫ By the turn of the 20th century, full evening dress consisted of a black tailcoat made of heavy fabric weighing {{convert|16|to|18|oz/yd|g/m|order=flip}}. Its lapels were medium width and the white shirt worn beneath it had a heavily starched, stiff front, fastened with pearl or black studs and either a winged collar or a type called a "poke", consisting of a high band with a slight curve at the front.<ref>Schoeffler 1973, p. 166</ref> After World War I, the dinner jacket became more popular, especially in the US, and informal variations sprang up, like the soft, turn-down collar shirt and later the double-breasted jacket;<ref>Schoeffler 1973, p. 168</ref> relaxing social norms in ] America meant white tie was replaced by black tie as the default evening wear for young men, especially at nightclubs.<ref name=":26" /> According to '']'', the years after ] saw white tie "almost abandoned".<ref name=":0">'''', vol. 128 (1936), p. 57</ref> But it did still have a place: the American etiquette writer ] stated in 1922 that "A gentleman must always be in full dress, tail coat, white waistcoat, white tie and white gloves" when at the opera, yet she called the tuxedo "essential" for any gentleman, writing that "It is worn every evening and nearly everywhere, whereas the tail coat is necessary only at balls, formal dinners, and in a box at the opera."<ref>Emily Post (1922). '' {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160119140552/http://www.gutenberg.org/files/14314/14314-h/14314-h.htm |date=19 January 2016}}''. New York and London: Funk and Wagnalls co. chap. vi, xxxiv</ref>
], 1954]]
⚫ By the turn of the 20th century, full evening dress consisted of a black tailcoat made of heavy fabric weighing {{convert|16|to|18|oz/yd|g/m|order=flip}}. Its lapels were medium width and the white shirt worn beneath it had a heavily starched, stiff front, fastened with pearl or black studs and either a winged collar or a type called a "poke", consisting of a high band with a slight curve at the front.<ref>Schoeffler 1973, p. 166</ref> After World War I, the dinner jacket became more popular, especially in the US, and informal variations sprang up, like the soft, turn-down collar shirt and later the double-breasted jacket;<ref>Schoeffler 1973, p. 168</ref> relaxing social norms in ] America meant white tie was replaced by black tie as the default evening wear for young men, especially at nightclubs.<ref name=":26" /> According to '']'', the years after ] saw white tie "almost abandoned".<ref name=":0">'''', vol. 128 (1936), p. 57</ref> But it did still have a place: the American etiquette writer ] stated in 1922 that "A gentleman must always be in full dress, tail coat, white waistcoat, white tie and white gloves" when at the opera, yet she called the tuxedo "essential" for any gentleman, writing that "It is worn every evening and nearly everywhere, whereas the tail coat is necessary only at balls, formal dinners, and in a box at the opera."<ref>Emily Post (1922). '' {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160119140552/http://www.gutenberg.org/files/14314/14314-h/14314-h.htm |date=2016-01-19 }}''. New York and London: Funk and Wagnalls co. chap. vi, xxxiv</ref>


]'', March 17, 1928)]]
⚫ It also continued to evolve. White tie was worn with slim-cut trousers in the early 1920s; by 1926, wide-lapelled tailcoats and double-breasted waistcoats were in vogue.<ref>Schoeffler 1973, pp. 169–170</ref> The ] (then Prince of Wales and later Edward VIII) wore a ] tailcoat, trousers and waistcoat in the 1920s and 1930s both to "soften" the contrast between black and white and allow for photographs to depict the nuances of his tailoring.<ref>{{Cite web|url = http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/82170|title = Evening suit|access-date = 1 October 2015|website = The Metropolitan Museum of Art|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151002151210/http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/82170|archive-date = 2 October 2015|url-status = live}}</ref> The late 1920s and 1930s witnessed a resurgence in the dress code's popularity,<ref name=":0" /><ref>Schoeffler 1973, p. 170</ref> but by 1953, one etiquette writer stressed that "The modern trend is to wear 'tails' only for the most formal and ceremonious functions, such as important formal dinners, balls, elaborate evening weddings, and opening night at the opera".<ref>]

(1953). ''New Standard Book of Etiquette''. New York: Garden Publishing Company. p. 358</ref> It was the dress code for the ]'s ] dinner until 1996.<ref>{{Cite news|url = https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/a-black-day-for-white-tie-at-lord-mayors-banquet-1335722.html|title = A black day for white tie at the Lord Mayor's banquet|last = Willcock|first = John|date = 6 June 1996|work = The Independent|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151001225000/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/a-black-day-for-white-tie-at-lord-mayors-banquet-1335722.html|archive-date = 1 October 2015|url-status = live}}</ref>
⚫ It also continued to evolve. White tie was worn with slim-cut trousers in the early 1920s; by 1926, wide-lapelled tailcoats and double-breasted waistcoats were in vogue.<ref>Schoeffler 1973, pp. 169–170</ref> The ] (then Prince of Wales and later Edward VIII) wore a ] tailcoat, trousers and waistcoat in the 1920s and 1930s both to "soften" the contrast between black and white and allow for photographs to depict the nuances of his tailoring.<ref>{{Cite web|url = http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/82170|title = Evening suit|access-date = 1 October 2015|website = The Metropolitan Museum of Art|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151002151210/http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/82170|archive-date = 2 October 2015|url-status = live}}</ref> The late 1920s and 1930s witnessed a resurgence in the dress code's popularity,<ref name=":0" /><ref>Schoeffler 1973, p. 170</ref> but by 1953, one etiquette writer stressed that "The modern trend is to wear 'tails' only for the most formal and ceremonious functions, such as important formal dinners, balls, elaborate evening weddings, and opening night at the opera".<ref>] (1953). ''New Standard Book of Etiquette''. New York: Garden Publishing Company. p. 358</ref>


The last president to have worn white tie at a ] was President ] in 1961, who wore ] for ], and a white tie ensemble for his ]. The last president to have worn white tie at a ] was President ] in 1961, who wore ] for ], and a white tie ensemble for his ].
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=== 21st century === === 21st century ===
While rare in the early 21st century, it survives as the formal dress code for royal and public ceremonies and ], ]s, ], and a select group of other social events in some countries. While rare in the early 21st century, it survives as the formal dress code for royal and public ceremonies and ], ]s, ], and a select group of other social events in some countries.

In London, it is still used by ambassadors attending the Christmas ball offered by ] at Buckingham palace<ref>{{cite magazine|last=Burack |first=Emily |date=5 December 2023 |title=The Best Photos of the Royal Family at the 2023 Diplomatic Corps Reception |url=https://www.townandcountrymag.com/society/tradition/g46044696/royal-family-2023-diplomatic-corps-reception-photos/ |magazine=] |access-date=24 July 2024}}</ref> as well as the Lord Mayor dinner at Mansion House.<ref>{{cite web |title=Dress Code & Etiquette at Livery Functions |url=https://wccsa.org.uk/dress-code-etiquette-at-livery-functions/ |website=The Worshipful Company of Chartered Secretaries and Administrators |access-date=26 July 2024}}</ref>


Notable international recurrent white tie events include the ] ceremony in Sweden<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.nobelprize.org/ceremonies/dresscode/|title=The Dress Code at the Nobel Banquet|work=Nobel Prize|publisher=Nobel Foundation|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151009011244/http://www.nobelprize.org/ceremonies/dresscode/|archive-date=9 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> and the ] in Austria.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.wiener-staatsoper.at/en/staatsoper/vienna-opera-ball/make-your-debut/|title=Make Your Debut At The Vienna Opera Ball-Dresscode|website=wiener-staatsoper.at|language=en|access-date=9 November 2019}}</ref> Notable international recurrent white tie events include the ] ceremony in Sweden<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.nobelprize.org/ceremonies/dresscode/|title=The Dress Code at the Nobel Banquet|work=Nobel Prize|publisher=Nobel Foundation|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151009011244/http://www.nobelprize.org/ceremonies/dresscode/|archive-date=9 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> and the ] in Austria.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.wiener-staatsoper.at/en/staatsoper/vienna-opera-ball/make-your-debut/|title=Make Your Debut At The Vienna Opera Ball-Dresscode|website=wiener-staatsoper.at|language=en|access-date=9 November 2019}}</ref>


In ] and the Netherlands, white tie is the traditional attire for ] conferments and is prescribed at some Swedish and Finnish universities, where it is worn with a ] variant called a ]. In Sweden and Finland, a black waistcoat is worn with white tie for academic occasions in the daytime.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Degree conferment celebrations for new PhDs|work=Uppsala University|url=http://www.uu.se/en/about-uu/traditions/conferment-ceremony/|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001154653/http://www.uu.se/en/about-uu/traditions/conferment-ceremony/|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Degree Ceremonies 2006|work=University of Vaasa|url=http://lipas.uwasa.fi/promootio/en/dress.html|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080308235053/http://lipas.uwasa.fi/promootio/en/dress.html|archive-date=8 March 2008|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|author-first=Beth|author-last=Miller|title=A sword, a hat and three unforgettable days in Helsinki|work=Washington University in St Louis|date=31 August 2010|url=http://news.wustl.edu/news/Pages/21091.aspx|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001160423/http://news.wustl.edu/news/Pages/21091.aspx|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Ditzhuyzen|first1=Reinildis van|title=De Dikke Ditz: Hoe hoort het eigenlijk?|publisher=H. J. W. Becht|location=Haarlem|language=nl|date=2013|isbn=978-90-230-1381-5|page=292}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://promootio.aalto.fi/fi/history/2014/pukeutuminen/|title = Aalto-yliopisto}}</ref> In the Netherlands, the attendants of the graduate student, called ], will also wear white tie. In ] and the Netherlands, white tie is the traditional attire for ] conferments and is prescribed at some Swedish and Finnish universities, where it is worn with a ] variant called a ]. At the universities in ] and ] in Sweden, it is still common for students to wear white tie at formal events. In Sweden and Finland, a black waistcoat is worn with white tie for academic occasions in the daytime.<ref>{{Cite web|title=Degree conferment celebrations for new PhDs|work=Uppsala University|url=http://www.uu.se/en/about-uu/traditions/conferment-ceremony/|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001154653/http://www.uu.se/en/about-uu/traditions/conferment-ceremony/|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Degree Ceremonies 2006|work=University of Vaasa|url=http://lipas.uwasa.fi/promootio/en/dress.html|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080308235053/http://lipas.uwasa.fi/promootio/en/dress.html|archive-date=8 March 2008|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|author-first=Beth|author-last=Miller|title=A sword, a hat and three unforgettable days in Helsinki|work=Washington University in St Louis|date=31 August 2010|url=http://news.wustl.edu/news/Pages/21091.aspx|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001160423/http://news.wustl.edu/news/Pages/21091.aspx|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Ditzhuyzen|first1=Reinildis van|title=De Dikke Ditz: Hoe hoort het eigenlijk?|publisher=H. J. W. Becht|location=Haarlem|language=nl|date=2013|isbn=978-90-230-1381-5|page=292}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://promootio.aalto.fi/fi/history/2014/pukeutuminen/|title = Aalto-yliopisto}}</ref> In the Netherlands, the attendants of the graduate student, called ], will also wear white tie.


Some ] such as ]s and ] wear dress coats to their meetings.<ref>Approved Masonic Dress, Aprons, Gauntlets, Collars and Jewels of Rank A Publication of the United Grand Lodge of NSW and the ACT, May 2012</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.masons.org.au/|title=Freemasons NSW & ACT – Home|website=www.masons.org.au|access-date=2018-11-20|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181117140213/https://www.masons.org.au/|archive-date=2018-11-17|url-status=live}}</ref> Some ] such as ]s and ] wear dress coats to their meetings.<ref>Approved Masonic Dress, Aprons, Gauntlets, Collars and Jewels of Rank A Publication of the United Grand Lodge of NSW and the ACT, May 2012</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.masons.org.au/|title=Freemasons NSW & ACT – Home|website=www.masons.org.au|access-date=20 November 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181117140213/https://www.masons.org.au/|archive-date=17 November 2018|url-status=live}}</ref>


==== United Kingdom ==== ==== United Kingdom ====
{{expand section|date=June 2019}} {{expand section|date=June 2019}}
In Britain, it is worn at certain formal occasions such as ],<ref>{{Cite news|url = https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-13554520|title = President Obama hosts star-studded farewell dinner|date = 25 May 2011|access-date = 30 September 2015|publisher = BBC News|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20141027024441/http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-13554520|archive-date = 27 October 2014|url-status = live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url = https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1567920/Protests-pomp-and-a-PM-in-white-tie.html |title = Protests, pomp and a PM in white tie|last = Gammell|first = Caroline|date = 31 October 2007|work = Daily Telegraph|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151005213246/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1567920/Protests-pomp-and-a-PM-in-white-tie.html|archive-date = 5 October 2015|url-status = live |url-access=subscription}}</ref> City of London livery dinners<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/news/politics/londoners-asked-help-fund-cost-of-white-tie-and-tails-for-city-councillors-a3791876.html |title=Londoners asked 'help fund cost of white tie and tails' for City councillors |website=The Standard}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://cityandlivery.co.uk/etiquette.html |title=The Etiquette of City of London and Livery Company Dinners and Banquets |website=City and Livery}}</ref> and certain balls at ], ], ], and ] universities.<ref>{{Cite news|url = http://www.cherwell.org/news/oxford/2014/03/12/magdalen-commemoration-ball-cancelled|title = Magdalen Commemoration Ball cancelled|date = 12 March 2014|work = Cherwell|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151001110500/http://www.cherwell.org/news/oxford/2014/03/12/magdalen-commemoration-ball-cancelled|archive-date = 1 October 2015|url-status = live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news In Britain, it is worn at certain formal occasions such as ],<ref>{{Cite news|url = https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-13554520|title = President Obama hosts star-studded farewell dinner|date = 25 May 2011|access-date = 30 September 2015|publisher = BBC News|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20141027024441/http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-13554520|archive-date = 27 October 2014|url-status = live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url = https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1567920/Protests-pomp-and-a-PM-in-white-tie.html |title = Protests, pomp and a PM in white tie|last = Gammell|first = Caroline|date = 31 October 2007|work = Daily Telegraph|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151005213246/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/1567920/Protests-pomp-and-a-PM-in-white-tie.html|archive-date = 5 October 2015|url-status = live |url-access=subscription}}</ref> City of London livery dinners<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/news/politics/londoners-asked-help-fund-cost-of-white-tie-and-tails-for-city-councillors-a3791876.html |title=Londoners asked 'help fund cost of white tie and tails' for City councillors |website=The Standard}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://cityandlivery.co.uk/etiquette.html |title=The Etiquette of City of London and Livery Company Dinners and Banquets |website=City and Livery}}</ref> and certain balls at ], ], ], ] and ] universities.<ref>{{Cite news|url = http://www.cherwell.org/news/oxford/2014/03/12/magdalen-commemoration-ball-cancelled|title = Magdalen Commemoration Ball cancelled|date = 12 March 2014|work = Cherwell|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151001110500/http://www.cherwell.org/news/oxford/2014/03/12/magdalen-commemoration-ball-cancelled|archive-date = 1 October 2015|url-status = live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news
| url = http://oxfordstudent.com/2014/04/01/mr-shan-menswear-on-white-tie/ | url = http://oxfordstudent.com/2014/04/01/mr-shan-menswear-on-white-tie/
| title = Mr Shan Menswear: on White Tie | title = Mr Shan Menswear: on White Tie
Line 58: Line 53:
| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151001164355/http://oxfordstudent.com/2014/04/01/mr-shan-menswear-on-white-tie/ | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20151001164355/http://oxfordstudent.com/2014/04/01/mr-shan-menswear-on-white-tie/
| archive-date = 1 October 2015 | archive-date = 1 October 2015
⚫ | url-status = live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://thetab.com/uk/stand/2014/11/14/review-white-tie-reeling-ball-11659 |title=Review: White Tie Reeling Ball |website=The Tab |date=14 November 2014 |access-date=4 March 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170304194006/http://thetab.com/uk/stand/2014/11/14/review-white-tie-reeling-ball-11659 |archive-date=4 March 2017 |url-status=live}}</ref><ref> https://www.eusa.ed.ac.uk/activities/view/reelingclub</ref> The president and officers of the ] are still required to wear white tie at every debate but since the 1930s, other speakers are only required to wear black tie.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Academic dress {{!}} University of Oxford |url=https://www.ox.ac.uk/students/academic/dress |access-date=16 March 2023 |website=www.ox.ac.uk |language=en}}</ref>
| url-status = live
⚫ }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://thetab.com/uk/stand/2014/11/14/review-white-tie-reeling-ball-11659 |title=Review: White Tie Reeling Ball |website=The Tab |date=14 November 2014 |access-date=2017-03-04 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170304194006/http://thetab.com/uk/stand/2014/11/14/review-white-tie-reeling-ball-11659 |archive-date=2017-03-04 |url-status=live }}</ref> White tie is also seen as part of a few public schools' uniform, such as ] and ], where the Head Boy is allowed to wear white tie to special events.{{citation needed|date=December 2019}}


==== United States ==== ==== United States ====
], wearing white tie, and First Lady ], wearing a gown designed by Ethel Franken of ], arrive at the ] in Washington D.C. for an inaugural ball held on the evening of ], January 20, 1961.]] ], wearing white tie, and First Lady ], wearing a gown designed by Ethel Franken of ], arrive at the ] in Washington D.C. for an inaugural ball held on the evening of ], 20 January 1961.]]
A few state dinners at the ] apply white tie, such as the one held for ] in 2007.<ref>{{Cite news|url = https://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/08/washington/08queen.html?_r=0|title = A White-Tie Dinner for Queen's White House Visit|last = Stolberg|first = Sheryl Gay|date = 8 May 2007|work = ]|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20130429001507/http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/08/washington/08queen.html?_r=0|archive-date = 29 April 2013|url-status = live}}</ref> Other notable examples include the ] in ], the ] in ], in additions to a few ] such as the ] in New York City, and the ] in ]. A few state dinners at the ] apply white tie, such as the one held for ] in 2007.<ref>{{Cite news|url = https://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/08/washington/08queen.html?_r=0|title = A White-Tie Dinner for Queen's White House Visit|last = Stolberg|first = Sheryl Gay|date = 8 May 2007|work = ]|access-date = 30 September 2015|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20130429001507/http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/08/washington/08queen.html?_r=0|archive-date = 29 April 2013|url-status = live}}</ref> Other notable examples include the ] in ], the ] in ], in additions to a few ] such as the ] in New York City, and the ] in ].


In the southern United States, white tie is sometimes referred to as "costume de rigueur", adapted from ] due to the historical background of ]. It is sometimes used in invitations to ]s and ] celebrations, such as the ] in ],<ref name="MBC"> In the southern United States, white tie is sometimes referred to as "costume de rigueur", adapted from ] due to the historical background of ]. It is sometimes used in invitations to ]s and ] celebrations, such as the ], ],<ref name="MBC">
"Mardi Gras Terminology", Mobile Bay Convention and Visitors "Mardi Gras Terminology", Mobile Bay Convention and Visitors
Bureau, 2009, webpage: Bureau, 2009, webpage:
{{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071209165238/http://www.mobile.org/vis_mardigras_terms.php |date=2007-12-09 }}. {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071209165238/http://www.mobile.org/vis_mardigras_terms.php |date=9 December 2007}}.
⚫ </ref><ref name="KB">. ''KrewedeBienville.com''. 2011.{{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304040235/http://www.krewedebienville.com/tickets.html |date=4 March 2016}}.</ref> or ], ], emphasising the white tie expectations for men and full-length ]s for ladies.<ref name=KB/>
</ref><ref name="KB">"Le Krewe de Bienville", KrewedeBienville.com, 2011, web:
⚫ {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304040235/http://www.krewedebienville.com/tickets.html |date=2016-03-04 }}.</ref> or ] in ], emphasising the white tie expectations for men and full-length ]s for ladies.<ref name=KB/>


When the ]'s ] in New York City announced a white tie dress code in 2014, a number of media outlets pointed out the difficulty and expense of obtaining traditional white tie, even for the celebrity guests.<ref>{{Cite news|author-last=Trebay|author-first=Guy|title=At the Met Gala, a Strict Dress Code|work=]|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/24/fashion/at-the-met-gala-a-strict-dress-code.html?_r=2|date=23 April 2014|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180426022345/https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/24/fashion/at-the-met-gala-a-strict-dress-code.html?_r=2|archive-date=26 April 2018|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|title=The Met Ball Is White Tie This Year – But What Does That Even Mean?|author-last=Rothman|author-first=Lily|url=http://time.com/83217/white-tie-costume-institute-gala/|work=Time|date=5 May 2014|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150925124854/http://time.com/83217/white-tie-costume-institute-gala/|archive-date=25 September 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> When the ]'s ] in New York City announced a white tie dress code in 2014, a number of media outlets pointed out the difficulty and expense of obtaining traditional white tie, even for the celebrity guests.<ref>{{Cite news|author-last=Trebay|author-first=Guy|title=At the Met Gala, a Strict Dress Code|work=]|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/24/fashion/at-the-met-gala-a-strict-dress-code.html?_r=2|date=23 April 2014|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180426022345/https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/24/fashion/at-the-met-gala-a-strict-dress-code.html?_r=2|archive-date=26 April 2018|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite magazine|title=The Met Ball Is White Tie This Year – But What Does That Even Mean?|author-last=Rothman|author-first=Lily|url=https://time.com/83217/white-tie-costume-institute-gala/|magazine=Time|date=5 May 2014|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150925124854/http://time.com/83217/white-tie-costume-institute-gala/|archive-date=25 September 2015|url-status=live}}</ref>


== Composition == == Composition ==
⚫ ] in ] with ambassador ] of ] in white tie and ] (2011)]]
{{see also|Tailcoat#Dress coat}} {{see also|Tailcoat#Dress coat}}
According to the British etiquette guide '']'', the central components of full evening dress for men are a white ] shirt with a wing ] and single ]s, fastened with studs and ]s; the eponymous white marcella ] is worn around the collar, while a low-cut marcella ] is worn over the shirt. Over this is worn a black double-breasted ] wool or ultrafine ] tailcoat with silk faced peak ]s. The trousers have two galon down the outside of both legs. The correct shoes are ] ]. Although a white scarf and evening overcoat remains popular in winter, the traditional white gloves, ], canes and cloaks are now rare. Women wear a full-length ], with the option of jewellery, a tiara, a pashmina, coat or wrap, and ]. According to the British etiquette guide '']'', the central components of full evening dress for men are a white ] shirt with a wing ] and single ]s, fastened with studs and ]s; the eponymous white marcella ] is worn around the collar, while a low-cut marcella ] is worn over the shirt. Over this is worn a black double-breasted ] wool or ultrafine ] tailcoat with silk faced peak ]s. The trousers have two galon down the outside of both legs. The correct shoes are ] ]. Although a white scarf and evening overcoat remains popular in winter, the traditional white gloves, ], canes and cloaks are now rare. Women wear a full-length ], with the option of jewellery, a tiara, a pashmina, coat or wrap, and ].


The waistcoat should not be visible below the front of the tailcoat, which necessitates a medium or high waistline and often suspenders (braces) for the trousers. As one style writer for ] magazine summarises "The simple rule of thumb is that you should only ever see black and white not black, white and black again".<ref>{{Cite web|author-first=Robert|author-last=Johnston|title=Attire to suit the occasion|work=GQ|date=2 March 2010|url=http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/style-shrink/expert-answer-/style-shrink-dress-suit-etiquette|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001165840/http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/style-shrink/expert-answer-/style-shrink-dress-suit-etiquette|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Evening Tailcoat|work=Ede & Ravenscroft|url=http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/white-tie/products/evening-tail-coat|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001221446/http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/white-tie/products/evening-tail-coat|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> While ''Debrett's'' accepts double cuffs for shirts worn with white tie,<ref name="debretts">{{Citation|url=http://www.debretts.com/british-etiquette/british-behaviour/h/dress-codes/white-tie|title=White Tie|work=Debrett's|access-date=28 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150913045838/http://www.debretts.com/british-etiquette/british-behaviour/h/dress-codes/white-tie|archive-date=13 September 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> most tailors and merchants suggest that single, linked cuffs are the most traditional and formal variation acceptable under the dress code.<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160305010525/http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/blogs/savvy-blog/16133636-white-tie-dress-code |date=2016-03-05 }}. ''Savvy Row''. Retrieved 26 February 2015.</ref> Double cuffs are not frequently worn or recommended with white tie. Decorations may also be worn and, unlike ''Debrett's'', ]'s '']'' student newspaper suggests a top hat, opera cloak and silver-topped cane are acceptable accessories.<ref>{{Cite web|author-last=Sharpe|author-first=James|title=Fix Up, Look Sharpe: Dress codes|work=Varsity|date=9 May 2011|url=https://www.varsity.co.uk/fashion/archives/fix-up-look-sharpe-dress-codes|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120451/https://www.varsity.co.uk/fashion/archives/fix-up-look-sharpe-dress-codes|url-status=dead|archive-date=12 September 2015|access-date=29 September 2015}}</ref> The waistcoat should not be visible below the front of the tailcoat, which necessitates a medium or high waistline and often suspenders (braces) for the trousers. As one style writer for ] magazine summarises "The simple rule of thumb is that you should only ever see black and white not black, white and black again".<ref>{{Cite web|author-first=Robert|author-last=Johnston|title=Attire to suit the occasion|work=GQ|date=2 March 2010|url=http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/style-shrink/expert-answer-/style-shrink-dress-suit-etiquette|access-date=29 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001165840/http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/style-shrink/expert-answer-/style-shrink-dress-suit-etiquette|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Evening Tailcoat |work=Ede & Ravenscroft |url=http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/white-tie/products/evening-tail-coat |access-date=29 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001221446/http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/white-tie/products/evening-tail-coat|archive-date=1 October 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> While ''Debrett's'' accepts double cuffs for shirts worn with white tie,<ref name="debretts">{{Citation|url=http://www.debretts.com/british-etiquette/british-behaviour/h/dress-codes/white-tie|title=White Tie|work=Debrett's|access-date=28 September 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150913045838/http://www.debretts.com/british-etiquette/british-behaviour/h/dress-codes/white-tie|archive-date=13 September 2015|url-status=live}}</ref> most tailors and merchants suggest that single, linked cuffs are the most traditional and formal variation acceptable under the dress code.<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160305010525/http://www.savvyrow.co.uk/blogs/savvy-blog/16133636-white-tie-dress-code |date=5 March 2016}}. ''Savvy Row''. Retrieved 26 February 2015.</ref> Double cuffs are not frequently worn or recommended with white tie. Decorations may also be worn and, unlike ''Debrett's'', ]'s '']'' student newspaper suggests a top hat, ] and silver-topped cane are acceptable accessories.<ref>{{Cite web|author-last=Sharpe|author-first=James|title=Fix Up, Look Sharpe: Dress codes|work=Varsity|date=9 May 2011|url=https://www.varsity.co.uk/fashion/archives/fix-up-look-sharpe-dress-codes|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150912120451/https://www.varsity.co.uk/fashion/archives/fix-up-look-sharpe-dress-codes|url-status=dead|archive-date=12 September 2015|access-date=29 September 2015}}</ref>
{{clear}} {{clear}}


==Gallery== ==Gallery==
<gallery> <gallery>
File:Getulio Vargas (1930).jpg|Official portrait of Brazilian President ] (1930)
File:Atatürk in white tie.jpg|] in evening white tie formal wear (1925)
File:Astaire,_Fred_-_Never_Get_Rich.jpg|] portrait for film '']'' (1941) File:Astaire,_Fred_-_Never_Get_Rich.jpg|] portrait for film '']'' (1941)
File:Emperor Showa & Empress Kojun 1956-11.jpg|Emperor ] and ] of Japan (c. 1956)
File:Portrait officiel de Habib Bourguiba.png|] (1903–2000), ] (1960)
File:Kennedy 1962 state dinner.jpg|President ] and Mrs. ] with President ] and Madame ] of the ] (1962) File:Kennedy 1962 state dinner.jpg|President ] and Mrs. ] with President ] and Madame ] of the ] (1962)
File:Nixon_and_the_Windsors.jpg|President ] with the ] alongside the ] in 1970. File:Nixon_and_the_Windsors.jpg|President ] with the ] alongside the ] in 1970
File:Ford and Emperor1975.jpg|] ], First Lady ], Japanese ] and ] during a state dinner, 1975 File:Ford and Emperor1975.jpg|] ], First Lady ], Japanese ] and ] during a state dinner, 1975
⚫ File:Formal dinner in honour of King Juan Carlos 2.jpg|] and President of Estonia ] (2009)
File:First family and Elizabeth II 2007 (outside).jpg|] and Mrs. ] welcome ] and ], upon their arrival to the White House for a state dinner (2007)
⚫ File:Sven Hirdman and Jaak Jõerüüt cropped.jpg|Swedish diplomat ] in ] with ambassador ] of ] in white tie and ] (2011)
⚫ File:Formal dinner in honour of King Juan Carlos 2.jpg|] and President of Estonia ] (2009).
File:2019 Saída para a Cerimônia de Entronização - 48939479843.jpg|Brazilian President ] at the enthronement ceremony of Japanese Emperor ] (2019)
File:Thomas-Schmidt-Dirigent-2013.jpg|Conductor Thomas Schmidt with white tie
</gallery> </gallery>


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=== Citations === === Citations ===
{{Reflist|30em}} {{Reflist}}


=== Bibliography === === Bibliography ===
* Philip Carter (January 2011). . ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', online ed. (subscription or UK public library membership required). Retrieved 28 September 2015. {{doi|10.1093/ref:odnb/3771}} * Philip Carter (January 2011). . ''Oxford Dictionary of National Biography'', online ed. (subscription or UK public library membership required). Retrieved 28 September 2015. {{doi|10.1093/ref:odnb/3771}}
* D. T. Jenkins (2003). '''', vol. 1. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. {{ISBN|978-0521341073}} * D. T. Jenkins (2003). '''', vol. 1. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. {{ISBN|978-0521341073}}
* O. E. Schoeffler (1973). ''Esquire's encyclopedia of 20th century men's fashions''. New York: McGraw-Hill {{ISBN|978-0070554801}} * O. E. Schoeffler (1973). ''Esquire's encyclopedia of 20th century men's fashions''. New York: McGraw-Hill {{ISBN|978-0070554801}}
* Rosalind H. Williams (1982). ''''. Berkeley and Los Angeles, CA: University of California Press. {{ISBN|978-0520043558}} * ] (1982). ''''. Berkeley and Los Angeles, CA: University of California Press. {{ISBN|978-0520043558}}


== External links == == External links ==
{{Commons category-inline|White tie}} {{Commons category|White tie}}
* * at Gentleman's Gazette
* * {{YouTube|tFaojo0P7_o|White Tie DO's & DON'Ts - Tailcoat & Full Fig Dress Code Guide}}


{{Wedding}} {{Weddings}}
{{Parties}} {{Parties}}
{{Fashion}} {{Fashion}}

Latest revision as of 04:46, 29 December 2024

Style of formal dressing

Dolores del Río in ball gown and Fred Astaire in white tie in Flying Down to Rio (1933)
Part of a series on
Western dress codes
and corresponding attires
Formal (full dress)
Semi-formal (half dress)
Informal (undress, "dress clothes")
Casual (anything not above)
Supplementary alternatives
Legend:

= Day (before 6 p.m.)
= Evening (after 6 p.m.)
    = Bow tie colour
= Ladies
= Gentlemen

Fashion portal

White tie, also called full evening dress or a dress suit, is the most formal evening Western dress code. For men, it consists of a black tail coat (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a white dress shirt with a starched or piqué bib, white piqué waistcoat and the white bow tie worn around a standing wing collar. Mid or high-waisted black trousers with galon, a braid of trim consisting of two silk stripes to conceal the outer seams of the trousers, along with court shoes (British English) (pumps in American English) complete the outfit. Orders, decorations and medals may be worn. Acceptable accessories include a black top hat, white gloves, a white scarf, a pocket watch, a white pocket square, and a boutonnière. Women wear full-length ball or evening gowns with evening gloves and, optionally, tiaras, jewellery, and a small handbag.

The dress code's origins can be traced back to the end of the 18th century. New fully black-coloured justaucorps styles emerged around the Age of Revolution, notably adopted by the bourgeois third estate of the Estates General of the Kingdom of France. Increasingly following the French Revolution, high society men abandoned the richly decorated justaucorps coats for more austere cutaway dress coats in dark colours, with cuts perhaps further inspired by the frocks and riding coats of country gentlemen. Gradually replacing also breeches, lacy dress shirts and jabots with plain white dress shirts, shorter waistcoats, white cravats and pantaloons, this became known as directoire style. By the early 19th-century Regency era, dark dress tailcoats with light trousers became standard daywear, while black and white became the standard colours for evening wear. Although the directoire style was replaced for daytime by black frock coats and bowties by mid-19th century, cutaway black dress tailcoats with white bowtie has remained established for formal evening wear ever since.

Despite the emergence of the more comfortable semi-formal black tie dress code in the 1880s, full evening dress tailcoats remained the staple. Towards the end of the Victorian era, white bow ties and waistcoats became the standard for full evening dress, contrasting with black bow ties and waistcoats or cummerbunds for black tie.

Following the social changes after the First World War and especially with the counterculture of the 1960s, white tie was increasingly replaced by black tie as default evening wear for more formal events. Since the late 20th century, white tie tends to be reserved for the most formal evening occasions, such as at banquets following investitures, state dinners and audiences, in addition to formal balls and galas such as the Vienna Opera Ball in Austria, the Nobel Prize banquet in Stockholm, Mardi Gras balls in New Orleans, Commemoration balls at Oxford and May balls at Cambridge, and the Al Smith Memorial Dinner in New York. White tie still also occurs at traditional weddings and church celebrations, at certain societies and fraternities, as well as occasionally around some traditional European universities and colleges.

History

See also: Tailcoat § History
Fashion plate from Costume Parisien (1823)

19th century: origins and development

Throughout the Early Modern period, western European male courtiers and aristocrats donned elaborate clothing at ceremonies and dinners: coats (often richly decorated), frilly and lacy shirts and breeches formed the backbone of their most formal attire. As the 18th century drew to a close, high society began adopting more austere clothing which drew inspiration from the dark hues and simpler designs adopted by country gentlemen. By the end of the 18th century, two forms of tail coat were in common use by upper-class men in Britain and continental Europe: the more formal dress coat (cut away horizontally at the front) and the less formal morning coat, which curved back from the front to the tails. From around 1815, a knee-length garment called the frock coat became increasingly popular and was eventually established, along with the morning coat, as smart daywear in Victorian England. The dress coat, meanwhile, became reserved for wear in the evening. The dandy Beau Brummell adopted a minimalistic approach to evening wear—a white waistcoat, dark blue tailcoat, black pantaloons and striped stockings. Although Brummell felt black an ugly colour for evening dress coats, it was adopted by other dandies, like Charles Baudelaire, and black and white had become the standard colours by the 1840s.

Over the course of the 19th century, the monotone colour scheme became a codified standard for evening events after 6 p.m. in upper class circles. The styles evolved and evening dress consisted of a black dress coat and trousers, white or black waistcoat, and a bow tie by the 1870s. The dinner jacket (black tie/tuxedo) emerged as a less formal and more comfortable alternative to full evening dress in the 1880s.

By the early 20th century, full evening dress meant wearing a white waistcoat and tie with a black tailcoat and trousers; white tie had become distinct from black tie. Despite its growing popularity, the dinner jacket remained the reserve of family dinners and gentlemen's clubs during the late Victorian period.

20th century

By the turn of the 20th century, full evening dress consisted of a black tailcoat made of heavy fabric weighing 500 to 560 grams per metre (16 to 18 oz/yd). Its lapels were medium width and the white shirt worn beneath it had a heavily starched, stiff front, fastened with pearl or black studs and either a winged collar or a type called a "poke", consisting of a high band with a slight curve at the front. After World War I, the dinner jacket became more popular, especially in the US, and informal variations sprang up, like the soft, turn-down collar shirt and later the double-breasted jacket; relaxing social norms in Jazz Age America meant white tie was replaced by black tie as the default evening wear for young men, especially at nightclubs. According to The Delineator, the years after World War I saw white tie "almost abandoned". But it did still have a place: the American etiquette writer Emily Post stated in 1922 that "A gentleman must always be in full dress, tail coat, white waistcoat, white tie and white gloves" when at the opera, yet she called the tuxedo "essential" for any gentleman, writing that "It is worn every evening and nearly everywhere, whereas the tail coat is necessary only at balls, formal dinners, and in a box at the opera."

Artistic depiction of a man in white tie dress (The New Yorker, March 17, 1928)

It also continued to evolve. White tie was worn with slim-cut trousers in the early 1920s; by 1926, wide-lapelled tailcoats and double-breasted waistcoats were in vogue. The Duke of Windsor (then Prince of Wales and later Edward VIII) wore a midnight blue tailcoat, trousers and waistcoat in the 1920s and 1930s both to "soften" the contrast between black and white and allow for photographs to depict the nuances of his tailoring. The late 1920s and 1930s witnessed a resurgence in the dress code's popularity, but by 1953, one etiquette writer stressed that "The modern trend is to wear 'tails' only for the most formal and ceremonious functions, such as important formal dinners, balls, elaborate evening weddings, and opening night at the opera".

The last president to have worn white tie at a United States presidential inauguration was President John F. Kennedy in 1961, who wore morning dress for his inauguration, and a white tie ensemble for his inauguration ball.

21st century

While rare in the early 21st century, it survives as the formal dress code for royal and public ceremonies and audiences, weddings, balls, and a select group of other social events in some countries.

In London, it is still used by ambassadors attending the Christmas ball offered by King Charles III at Buckingham palace as well as the Lord Mayor dinner at Mansion House.

Notable international recurrent white tie events include the Nobel Prize ceremony in Sweden and the Vienna Opera Ball in Austria.

In Scandinavia and the Netherlands, white tie is the traditional attire for doctoral conferments and is prescribed at some Swedish and Finnish universities, where it is worn with a top hat variant called a doctoral hat. At the universities in Uppsala and Lund in Sweden, it is still common for students to wear white tie at formal events. In Sweden and Finland, a black waistcoat is worn with white tie for academic occasions in the daytime. In the Netherlands, the attendants of the graduate student, called paranymphs, will also wear white tie.

Some fraternities such as Freemasons and Odd Fellows wear dress coats to their meetings.

United Kingdom

This section needs expansion. You can help by adding to it. (June 2019)

In Britain, it is worn at certain formal occasions such as state banquets, City of London livery dinners and certain balls at Oxford, Cambridge, Durham, Edinburgh and St Andrews universities. The president and officers of the Oxford Union are still required to wear white tie at every debate but since the 1930s, other speakers are only required to wear black tie.

United States

President John F. Kennedy, wearing white tie, and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, wearing a gown designed by Ethel Franken of Bergdorf Goodman, arrive at the D.C. Armory in Washington D.C. for an inaugural ball held on the evening of Inauguration Day, 20 January 1961.

A few state dinners at the White House apply white tie, such as the one held for Queen Elizabeth II in 2007. Other notable examples include the Gridiron Club Dinner in Washington, D.C., the Alfred E. Smith Memorial Foundation Dinner in New York City, in additions to a few debutante balls such as the International Debutante Ball in New York City, and the Veiled Prophet Ball in St. Louis.

In the southern United States, white tie is sometimes referred to as "costume de rigueur", adapted from French language due to the historical background of New France. It is sometimes used in invitations to masquerade balls and Mardi Gras celebrations, such as the Mardi Gras in Mobile, Alabama, or New Orleans Mardi Gras, Louisiana, emphasising the white tie expectations for men and full-length evening gowns for ladies.

When the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute Gala in New York City announced a white tie dress code in 2014, a number of media outlets pointed out the difficulty and expense of obtaining traditional white tie, even for the celebrity guests.

Composition

See also: Tailcoat § Dress coat

According to the British etiquette guide Debrett's, the central components of full evening dress for men are a white marcella shirt with a wing collar and single cuffs, fastened with studs and cufflinks; the eponymous white marcella bow tie is worn around the collar, while a low-cut marcella waistcoat is worn over the shirt. Over this is worn a black double-breasted barathea wool or ultrafine herringbone tailcoat with silk faced peak lapels. The trousers have two galon down the outside of both legs. The correct shoes are patent leather court shoes. Although a white scarf and evening overcoat remains popular in winter, the traditional white gloves, top hats, canes and cloaks are now rare. Women wear a full-length evening dress, with the option of jewellery, a tiara, a pashmina, coat or wrap, and long white gloves.

The waistcoat should not be visible below the front of the tailcoat, which necessitates a medium or high waistline and often suspenders (braces) for the trousers. As one style writer for GQ magazine summarises "The simple rule of thumb is that you should only ever see black and white not black, white and black again". While Debrett's accepts double cuffs for shirts worn with white tie, most tailors and merchants suggest that single, linked cuffs are the most traditional and formal variation acceptable under the dress code. Double cuffs are not frequently worn or recommended with white tie. Decorations may also be worn and, unlike Debrett's, Cambridge University's Varsity student newspaper suggests a top hat, opera cloak and silver-topped cane are acceptable accessories.

Gallery

References

Citations

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